[TyG]

Hello, Sorry to bring up an old thread; but, I am not longer able to make any fuming boxes.
Take care, Ty

[TyG]

Hello, sorry to bring up an old post; but I am no longer able to manufacture the fuming boxes.
Take care, Ty

[TyG]

Thank you for your answers.

[TyG]

This pair has been sold. Thanks all.

[TyG]

I’ll see if I can hunt down an image of the ones I did for Jason (CAP). These are not the “premium” dovetailed cherry type. The CAP wanted a work-horse set of boxes that were not premium priced. They are plywood box and lid with wood screw.

Here is an image of the pair for Center for Alt Photo.

[TyG]

Also, the commonly known method for model makers and such to break a CA glue bond is to put the glued pieces in the freezer for a couple hours or more and it just comes apart. That should tell enough about the structural integrity of CA glue.

[TyG]

Andy, you asked if I have ever had experience in CA glue failing. I very rarely ever use it, and only in places where I only need to hold something for a brief moment to final assemble by other means. What John about “welding” of acrylic is what I want in every adhesion I make. Wood glue; I use either a water-based titebond or elmer’s white glue which raise the grain of wood and then each grain is inter-locking and glued. For acrylic/plexi, I use Weld-On products which melt and re-join the pieces essentially forming the chemical “weld.” For other crap that just plain get broken, etc, I will use a two-part epoxy for stuff like that.

[TyG]

So, lexan and plexi will not work at all? or not very long?

[TyG]

CA glue actually becomes brittle after a few years and easily breaks. A whole bunch of woodworkers are just figuring this out; as a few years ago, the woodturners got the bright idea of using CA glue for dang near everything. I am in a woodworking club, and quite a few of them have had things done with CA just simply fall apart.

[TyG]

McMaster-Carr sells PTFE teflon sheets that are adhesive-backed. As far as adhering glass to wood; I have had good success by grinding (ground glass) the surface to bond to the wood and using gorilla glue (poly glue). Thin coat and clamp so that when it foams, it doesn’t push glass away from wood.

[TyG]

Krokodul, sorry to take so long. Haven’t been playing on computer much lately. Too much work in the woodshop. Mike, the expert on the spring design has obviously chimed in. To answer the question, no I did not give it any more thought; as the guys who have had me build boxes were wanting a different design. I do like Mike’s boxes, and don’t want to step on any toes. I have two designs I go with, both screw down.

[TyG]

I don’t want this to get negative, just understood correctly all the way around. With the posted design, when the glass is pulled out, the holder slide drops onto the glass with the wood lid over it. True, not as airtight as the glass slide, yet no open cracks either. Basically just the same as the strike through; wood slide touching glass, and lid touching holder slide. You do have the brief second to lift the holder slide a tiny bit to get the glass slide to go in under it.

I do not take your advice lightly, I will have both designs available for make. Images of the strike through will be up in a couple months.

The first design comes from a Jerry S. workshop handout, with a slight variation in the screw. I have also had someone email me today saying the have one made very similar to the posted one and it has worked fine for 5 years.

[TyG]

John,

I do have a design for a strike through and will be able to provide that as a second option.

Two options is always a good thing.

Although, I don’t have plans for a box larger than whole plate at the moment.

[TyG]

John, where were you when I was asking for opinions and help with design ideas and what people like/dislike in each design? Kinda like a fair-weather fan.

Simple enough fix; if someone needs a box and does not feel the above design fits their needs, a strike through can easily be made as well.

[TyG]

If I had a stop to keep the glass from coming out, then the holder slide would not seal against the dish.

It really does seem to be pretty smooth in operation. When you slide the holder out with a loaded plate, it can just stay out until the next plate is ready to go in.

[TyG]

I am a bit confused about the manipulations comment of being 10 steps…

No, I did not put a stop for the holder. It will slide all the way out and the cover lid goes down onto the ground glass. You can tighten that down or not, then put the plate holder in and simply lift the cover lid about 1/2″ and slide in the holder; then, yes slide out the ground glass, and the holder and lid drop to the dish and can be tightened down if desired.

What I did was try to take the better seal from one design and the compactness of another and combine them.

Also, the concept of the two separate slides on top of each other as I have comes from a handout from a Jerry S. workshop (if I remember correctly there). I was told that he said he liked that design.

Another thing that may not be clear is that the holder slide can be pulled out without moving the glass slide.

Also, I made it so that, unlike the other European designs I’ve seen; all pieces “float” so when you pull out the glass slide, the holder drops onto the dish with the lid still on top and can be tightened down during the fuming to help with escaping fumes during this stage.

[TyG]

Jonathan, I opted to veer away from the sliding dovetail because of the strength factor. There is a weak point at the points of the cutout that can break easily if dropped or just hit wrong. It may be plenty strong if using plywood, but I use solid hardwood. Also, it is just one more “moving part” to deal with. The dish can still come completely out with my design. I got the idea for the fixed bar from one of Walter Johnson’s strike through boxes.

This design is definitely a culmination of the good points of each design out there.

[TyG]

Great Images. Thanks so much for showing the breakdown of it.

[TyG]

Gosh ALMIGHTY, that stuff by weight has got to be worth more than gold. Thanks for the link though Andy.

[TyG]

Hey Jason, I had thought about shooting you an email when I started planning this thing. What is Teflon? Of course, I know of the stuff on my pots and pans; yet I am not familiar with anything like that in sheet form. What is it and what color is it?

Thanks so much all of you. I have a design I am going to go with and if I can figure out how, I will post images of my version when I’m done with it.

Ty

[TyG]

Ok, edit myself. I searched and did come across a post telling how to get the dish perfectly flat.

[Author]

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