[Javi]

Hi, indeed, thank you for the (much needed) words of encouragement. I will definitely try to record the process next time I give it a try to the gold rush.

I was about to add another entry but I might as well this post to ask two more questions:

– I have read in some posts people develop the Becqs with 2 layers of Rubylith instead of with just one layer. Why? Is there any evidence/experience that suggests the 2 layers are better than just one in terms of results?

Thank you!!!

Javi

[Javi]

Hi,

I am wearing a half face mask for prevention’s sake. Please note that I am using a fuming box with a slider so exposure to iodine is minimal. You could also use eye protection with the half face mask if you don’t want to use a full face mask.

Javi

[Javi]

I imagine that, like me, many beginners do not have a “proper” workplace to carry on daguerrean activities. The time & economic effort needed to master this technique may encourage beginners to invest more in equipment rather than safety. This is completely wrong. Make sure safety comes first! Using mercury and bromine at home without a fume hood is out of the question. In the case of Becquerel, I store the iodine fuming box outside in the balcony (away from direct sun) and take it for sensitizing inside the bathroom (with extractor), put on gloves and a proper gas mask. After, I make sure to open all windows to ventilate the area.

A question I have for the more experienced, in the event of not having a fuming hood, how “safe” and “effective” is to sensitize (iodine & quickie) plus develop (mercury) outdoors (ex: at night in the wild / in the attic)?

Cheers!

Javi

[Javi]

John,

 

thank you so much for your help. I decided to spend a few days focusing only on exposure. I ended up with two “better” exposures at 1′ and 1’30” at 11:00AM and EV14.5. I am getting more comfortable with exposure times but still need more & more & more & even more practice. I decided to “start” again with the whole process learning, devoting a few days (or more) to each step (buffing, sensitizing, exposure & fixing/gilding).

 

About buffing, could an orbital sander be a substitute for the hand buffs? Not that I enjoy buffing but after a while my arm becomes numb (as a positive side at least I do exercise!). I also get exasperated to see how much the cotton-velvet hand buffs “attract” dust when I’m buffing.

 

As a last question, I am considering switching my current (oldie but goodie) 5×7 camera for a 4×5. Any suggestions of models and lenses to avoid/obtain? Unfortunately, price does matter and I doubt the 5×7 is worth much (Eastman 33A) to trade it.

 

Thanks again!

 

Javi

 

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[Javi]

Thank you so much for your wise input.

I will try and shorten the exposure time a little bit and try to get an overall image less dark. Another doubt I have is how much exposure changes between camera-to-subject distance (and hence, focus). I have tested other plates to more close-up objects (all out in the sun) and having a hard time determining a good exposure.

About buffing, I use Red Rouge (first buff) and then nothing (second buff). I use a song by Queen as a time and pressure pattern (no joking!). I play it once and then turn 90º the plate and keep on buffing, turn again 90º and so on). Maybe I should try other compounds just in case and be more careful not to scratch the surface of the plate.

I prefer making up new fixer every day for consistency’s sake. Do you recommend a final bath in distilled or pure water (even if not gilding)?

Thank you again!

Javi

[Javi]

Hello again,

thank you so much for sharing your wisdom. I masked off two plates as you suggested. One plate I exposed it at f4 for 2′ and the other plate at f4 for 20′. I still didn’t get any image at all. The EV (at 100ASA) was of 14. I am starting to wonder if it is the red plastic film I use that fogs everything. I inspect the plate during developing with suspicious eyes but there is no hint of image whatsoever. I will try to buy a proper red or amber masking film for developing and pray for the best.

Javi

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