[drdag]

The time is 6-8.30 PM

[drdag]

I use a flat sheet of MDF just about 1/2 an inch wider all around than the plate. I hold the plate tightly with my thumbs at the top edge. I then turn and repeat , as you can’t polish the bit where your thumbs are. If you are precious about your nails you can wear some latex or preferably nitrile disposable gloves. When I polish on the velvet by hand I use all the fingers on both hands distributed on the back of the plate. In your case it will be only 1 hand. I have never seen the need for a plate holder to polish, others do tho’, it is a matter of persnoanl preference. Incidently I have different backing boards for the different compunds.

[drdag]

Sorry back again, dont waste your money on a buffing rake, get any old bit of steel about 1/8th or so thick 1 to 2 inches wide and as long as you can comfortably hold, cut it with the roughest hacksaw that you have (a new file also works) then plunge the bit of metal rough end first (make sure it is below the centre line of the mop or you will be in ER having it removed from your navel) it needs to go in nearly at 90 degrees and hard, moving from side to side. You will immediately have threads and sneezy dust every where, do it for ten seconds or so. Then the mop is clean, apply a little tripoli or rouge. Never share mops between compounds and do it every time you polish. Even the dust that lands on an idle mop will scratch silver plates.

[drdag]

Couple of things , My motor is 2750 not 2400 as I previously mentioned, If you press the plate in harder then obviously it will have more of an action on the metal, if it is very gently applied, the lines start to disappear. (By the way I think a stitched mop is too agressive unless it has very deep marks). I was taught at art college by an eminant silversmith that the rouge actually ‘moves’ the very top surface of the metal, which is why it polishes. The rouge however hardly removes any silver hence the ability to use a plate time and time again if it is well plated.With regard to the galvanising or as we have come to understand re-plating I think that you are right, it is putting a brand new 99.99 pure silver coat on the plate, which I think was more important to the Victorians (sorry uk here) with the hand polishing methods, but less important to us with our mops. These whip the old image off in seconds. I think it would be folly to be galvanaizing (or plating) every time. As I said before if you go an visit a silversmith and ask them how to polish (telling them what you are up to ) I am sure that they will give you half an hour of their time.

[drdag]

My bromine water is in what looks like an ordinary bottle with a plastic type lid. The pure bromine is is glass phials that you have to break to remoeve the contents

[drdag]

How long does that last?
I use the bromine water (I have a litre) and it is around 2% I top it up with a few ccs of pure bromine when I feel necessary.
When I have done my plates the bromine water goes back in to the bottle.

[drdag]

Straight bromine?

[drdag]

Following on from that, if you use the becquerel method (less invasive on the surface of the silver to mercury) the it is just a matter of the two rouge mops for 5 mins and the hand polishing to go again. I have had silver plated copper (50 microns) and have made 30 dags on one plate without going through.The rouge is hardly abrasive.

[drdag]

I am/ was a silversmith so we did a bit of polishing in our time. I use a 5 to 6 inch wheel at 2400 with Tripoli this is brown and can be obtained from a jewelers suppliers. I use a cotton mop. It is important to keep it moving. This removes any scratches that are finer than say 1200 wet and dry paper. Deeper scratches I use a Water of Ayr stone, very wet. Once the tripoli is done, I use a finer cotton mop with rouge then another finer one that I keep really clean and dust free away from the polishing area.
You should be very near a mirror by then, I then finish by hand with some rouge on cotton velvet. The copper should not need any more abrasive than tripoli, if you are using emery and stitched sizals then you are putting more scratches in. If you are unsure go to a silversmith/jeweler and ask him to show you , I am sure they wont mind.

[drdag]

If you are persistent then these things can be obtained. You can also buy Bromine water off the shelf here (UK)
legally.I bought 10 phials of bromine from a ‘chemical’ guy on ebay. He was advertising n stuff and said he could get anything. The mercury is a bit harder, I got a lot of mine when I put an advert
on Freecycle and was given some old blood pressure sphygnometers. You do not need much to get going.

[drdag]

I mainly have been using Becquerel as I am happier with the safety aspect. I have a fume cupboard and aslo wear a mask when using the mercury, I have found it much more difficult using the bromine and mercury than using just the iodine.There are more variable to control. This however means that the images need to be of still subjects due to the longer exposure times.

[drdag]

Just thought I would introduce myself, my website is http://www.daguerreotypes.co.uk . Appologies for the avatar, it is the nickname that some fellow students gave me whilst studying for my photography degree as a mature student . They were talking pixels and I was taking mercury temperatures! (I am still into digital aswell.) I have talked to some of the guys on the list and they have all been helpful and encouraging. If anyone is in London I have 6 images on show at the Association of Photographers Gallery 7th to 12th July.

[drdag]

How thick is the jlar, surely coming over on to the glass would be better as you then are protecting that flap with your brass matts. The edge on the glass may be a bit vunerable but should be okay. Dont forget to try the hot glue gun as discussed on the wet night in London.

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