[Bakody]

On the surface of B-dags are “silver slat” (nothing to evaporate from it) and on the surface of M-dags is amalgam, mercury evaporate, need to protect it with gilding. Nice discussion about this in the forum already: http://www.cdags.org/forums/topic/importance-of-gilding-for-durability/

http://daginhun.blogspot.com/
 http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype

[Bakody]

How quickly it’s changing colour between yellow, rose and purple? Maybe with that 10 sec you passed magenta if it’s fast.

http://daginhun.blogspot.com/
 http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype

[Bakody]

You don’t need to gild a Becquerel developed daguerreotype!!! Unnecessary.

http://daginhun.blogspot.com/
 http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype

[Bakody]

Good to hear it, that this time was better.
Maybe the fuming was uneven because you heat the plate and it cool down unevenly…

http://daginhun.blogspot.com/
 http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype

[Bakody]

Hi!
Maybe the distance between your plate and iodine is too much, but first wait longer then 10 minutes before fuming!
I don’t leave iodine in the fuming box as well, because it not sealed well, but at least about 1 hours earlier I prepare it, I put it in. Until that I’m polishing, set up the camera, etc…
Now at winter time because of the low temperature it’s takes for me longer (much longer) then you to fume the plates, so I think if you are keep checking the colour of the plate it’s still fine to fume it longer time. Just check it regularly.

http://daginhun.blogspot.com/
 http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype

[Bakody]

For me to start to use bromine was an important milestone in how I make daguerreotypes and because of this I made a short video about vacuum mercury development. This video is about how I made the picture what you can see in the previous post.

http://daginhun.blogspot.com/
 http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype

[Bakody]

Thank you for your help!
The main problem was the second iodine wasn’t enough long. Now it’s good. Thank you for the advice.
This time I still used a little bit more Br, but next time I will know how to do it…
It’s a little bit overexposed on here face and maybe underdeveloped, but I recycled the plate many times, so I think not much silver left on it, I will keep it. I gilded as well.

You asked about the time of the iodine and bromine. I always look at the colour changes, so I don’t really know the time. Anyway, now the weather is cold in here, the temperature is about 2-3C, so it’s means, so during fuming the temperature is 2-3C and everything takes longer then usual.
The vacuum was -0,95bar, mercury temperature was about 3C and the development time was 4 hours.
Video about this daguerreotype and see the photo about it below.

(Soon I will finish with a few minutes long video about how to make vacuum developed dags… so how I make it…)

Attachments:

You must be logged in to view attached files.

http://daginhun.blogspot.com/
 http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype

[Bakody]

I started to use bromine for sensitizing. Today I mad the third plate with it, better and better, but I don’t know now what’s wrong.

I start with iodine, until the plate colour change to yellow (before turn to orange).
Then I use bromine, until the colour change to rose. (on the first plate(IMG_8421aa.jpg) at the corners was purple, in the middle rose, second plate(IMG_8456a.jpg) the colour was rose everywhere, except one small area in the corner)
Then I used iodine again with no light, just to “erase the light” .

What do you think, what’s wrong? Is the bromine is still too much? Or I need to live it for longer time in the second round of iodine?
On the first dag(IMG_8421aa.jpg), up and down in a horizontal line, you can see good parts, where is no fog. On the second plate(IMG_8456a.jpg) you can see bigger area on here jacket, where is no fog…. (?)

Attachments:

You must be logged in to view attached files.

http://daginhun.blogspot.com/
 http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype

[Bakody]

Is anyone try to make bromine like above, or like this? : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BdrM9oj-Cyc&feature=related

http://daginhun.blogspot.com/
 http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype

[Bakody]

Ecoleica, did you able to make black and white Becquerel developed dags? Don’t forget: lots of light + more time + enough red film = black and white Becquerel dag.

http://daginhun.blogspot.com/
 http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype

[Bakody]

I think I measured f5.6, time was 1/125. I think it's more important, that I sensitized just with iodine until rose colour and maybe I gilded for too long. I had to change on the exposure time from 6.7min to 13.3min.

This is the latest: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=406839849383272&set=a.371776002889657.82853.371771479556776&type=1&relevant_count=1

Here the exposition time was 27min. I sensitized just with iodine until rose colour and I think the gilding was better this time. Development time was 3 hours at -0.96bar, temperature 14C.

I ordered the bromine. I hope until this weekend it will arrive so I can try it soon. At the first try I want to mix 1-2 drops of bromine with some water and put it in to the fuming box and maybe if result wont be too good or not too even, mix it with silica gel.

http://daginhun.blogspot.com/
 http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype

[Bakody]

Thank you John!

At the next 2 weeks I wont have time make new dags, but I will order bromine soon.

After hen I took the picture about this dag, some yellow-white spots came out at the top, where the water is overexposed. Nothing serious, just in a small area.

http://daginhun.blogspot.com/
 http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype

[Bakody]

It's cold mercury developed dag. I can make just cold mercury developed dags.

I usually iodizing for magenta, purple.

So I will increase the exposure and make shorter developing time.

Thank you!

http://daginhun.blogspot.com/
 http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype

[Bakody]

"water lily" http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=401445699922687&set=a.371776002889657.82853.371771479556776&type=1&ref=nf

On the same plate what I used before, my first acceptable mercury developed daguerreotype! It's a little bit over gilded, but I keep it. I still couldn't get blue solarization, but I will keep trying. Do you have any advice? Yellow or yellow-rose colour for iodine and maybe shorter development time?

Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=31ohTar25Vg

http://daginhun.blogspot.com/
 http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype

[Bakody]

Today I had time to make 2 images on the same test plate like before. You still can see where was the white mercury spot, but it's lighter and lighter…

Street view:

temperature: 17C

vacuum: -0.96bar

development time: 4h

Lettuce:

temperature: 17C

vacuum: -0.96bar

development time: 3h

Little bit overexposed.

I think 3 hours of development is not enough. Something still wrong in my process, because in one side the image is black.

I wanted to ask how to make blue solarization, but I found the answer in the forum: I need to use thinner iodine coating (yellow-rose). Now I'm using purple.

http://daginhun.blogspot.com/
 http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype

[Bakody]

This was my third try with vacuum development.

temperature: 17C

vacuum: -0.96bar

development time: 5.5h

On the picture you can see, what I can see from my window.

I had to lover the position of the plate, closer to the mercury. Compare to the plate size, my vacuum chamber is big, so I put the mercury in a low glass plate and I put it in to a small plastic container. My plate is just fir in the container. So like this I can concentrate the mercury fumes to the plate.

It's a little bit dirty because of the quick washing.

Is this plate overdeveloped? What is in the middle of the picture (huge white spot)? Why is it there?

http://daginhun.blogspot.com/
 http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype

[Bakody]

Thank you for your answer!

I calculated with the Becquerel exposure time.

I will try to make a couple of new images this weekend. I will let you know how good is the result.

http://daginhun.blogspot.com/
 http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype

[Bakody]

Hello John,

Yesterday I made my first vacuum developed mercury dag. The result wasn't too good. Actually I could see just the shadow of the object in the image, but I know what was the problem: I need to have much more development time.

I would like to ask the flowing thing:

In Hungary the winter is coming, the temperature will drop down soon. It's already around 20C. I saw it somewhere that over 21C mercury fumes increase fast in the air. Do you have any experience with temperature less then 20C? How will mercury fumes change in the temperature like 15, 10, 5C?

http://daginhun.blogspot.com/
 http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype

[Bakody]

Thank you for your answer! It was really helpful.

I will listen to you and first I will make it without bromine.

http://daginhun.blogspot.com/
 http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype

[Bakody]

Hi!

Because soon I will collect all the necessary equipment to make mercury dags (vacuum development) it’s time to buy the chemicals, like bromine…

Just to make sure, I want to ask a few things:

BROMINE WATER 30G/L 1 * 29 ml Is this solution contains too much water, too weak?

So I have left 2 other option:

BROMINE LIQUID, 99.8% 1 * 250 g

BROMINE LIQUID, 99.8% 1 * 25 g

About how much ml are they? How long is the 25g enough for you?

And at the end, I know this is the bromine section, but how much mercury you usually buy and for example 100g mercury is about how much ml?

http://daginhun.blogspot.com/
 http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype

[Bakody]

Have you try to use different iodine colour circle? At the moment I prefer to use purple.

I found this posts for you, might be a good starting point:

http://www.cdags.org/dagforum/topic.php?id=178#post-3080

http://www.cdags.org/dagforum/topic.php?id=259#post-3695

and

I guess, not sure about it, so I ask it: Is it possible to view easier the old dag, because of the oxidation of the surface?

http://daginhun.blogspot.com/
 http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype

[Bakody]

Hi,

It’s over sensitized, too much iodine on your plate.

Make sure sure:

-bottom of your fuming box is evenly coated with iodine everywhere (don’t use too much)

-your plate isn’t hotter on some parts

-wait a little bit after you put iodine in the box.

-check your plate regularly, that how is colour change.

Good luck!

http://daginhun.blogspot.com/
 http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype

[Bakody]

Hi,

Yes, you can. Need to wash it well to remove all chemicals and need to polish it again. Good luck!

http://daginhun.blogspot.com/
 http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype

[Bakody]

Blue image means underdevelopment (not overexposed), you need more time. Overexposed parts are blue in the mercury development.

Or you can get blue image as well if your red films are not red enough, so need to use more layers from it to able to get real red and able to filter out all the others.

I hope its helps.

http://daginhun.blogspot.com/
 http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype

[Bakody]

Hi,

1: As soon as you can. As I remember maximum 30min and after that you will loose from the image quality. I think I have never wait longer then 15min.

2: I think it’s the same 30min and then you will loose from the quality. I’m not sure about this. I have never wait more then 5min to start to develop it under red light.

For me, under red film the development time takes about 2 and a half hours and I can get black and white images.

Good luck!

http://daginhun.blogspot.com/
 http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype

[Author]

Posts