[Andy Stockton]

Below a comparison of the two processes lifted straight from wikipedia.

One question though – is there any difference between using isopropyly alcohol and ethanol?

Distillation

Distilled water is often defined as bottled water that has been produced by a process of distillation and has an electrical conductivity of not more than 10 µS/cm and total dissolved solids of less that 10 mg/L[1]. Distillation involves boiling the water and then condensing the steam into a clean container, leaving most solid contaminants behind. Distillation produces very pure water but also leaves behind a leftover white or yellowish mineral scale on the distillation apparatus, which requires that the apparatus be frequently cleaned. Distillation does not guarantee the absence of bacteria in drinking water; unless the reservoir and/or bottle are sterilized before being filled, and once the bottle has been opened, there is a risk of presence of bacteria.

Deionization

Deionized water which is also known as demineralized water[2] (DI water or de-ionized water; can also be spelled deionised water, see spelling differences) is water that has had its mineral ions removed, such as cations from sodium, calcium, iron, copper and anions such as chloride and bromide. Deionization is a physical process which uses specially-manufactured ion exchange resins which bind to and filter out the mineral salts from water. Because the majority of water impurities are dissolved salts, deionization produces a high purity water that is generally similar to distilled water, and this process is quick and without scale buildup. However, deionization does not significantly remove uncharged organic molecules, viruses or bacteria, except by incidental trapping in the resin. Specially made strong base anion resins can remove Gram-negative bacteria. Deionization can be done continuously and inexpensively using electrodeionization.

[Andy Stockton]

Thanks Jonathan – it will be great to have others chime in as well. It is helpful not to have to constantly reinvent the wheel and going to a plater that has already worked with a daguerreotypist should make things much easier.

[Andy Stockton]

Does anyone else have a plater they recommend?

[Andy Stockton]

Hey Corey – good luck. I will look forward to the results. I am in the middle of trying various methods on copper so hope to hear as many of your details as you are willing to share.

[Andy Stockton]

Hi Nathaniel, welcome aboard. It most certainly is possible to make daguerreotypes from negatives, and if I recall correctly Jonathan Danforth has a quite a bit of experience at it and may chime in here. If not, check him out at http://shinyphotos.com.

The chemicals are indeed a challenge, but can be obtained. I suggest you search this site for the words mercury, bromine and iodine. You will see a fair amount of discussion.

I am one of the editors here, but am a beginner like you – you can read about my progess at http://thedaguerreotypist.com. If you are like most you will want to start with the Becquerel process which is less toxic, and work your way into the mercury process later when you understand the equipment required to proceed safely. You will find a lot of material here.

Enjoy!

[Andy Stockton]

This is a moving image to me, particularly the effect of the eyes and your placement of the hands. I have read about Mr. Hauser’s work in Africa and elsewhere and that adds additional meaning to the portrait for me. Thanks for putting up the image and thanks especially for including the technical data, it is very helpful.

[Andy Stockton]

Also for those of you that have them, how heavy does the base need to be for the setup to be effective?

[Andy Stockton]

For any interested – my latest post is about a test of the Mercury Indicating Powder I purchased from Lab Safety Supply.

http://www.thedaguerreotypist.com/tdg1/wordpress/2009/03/09/mercury-test/

[Andy Stockton]

Rob – Thanks for the thoughtful response. I am looking forward to the day when the mechanics of the process begin to recede at least a bit and I can focus more on the art.

[Andy Stockton]

Beautiful work Rob. I especially like the feeling the DOF evokes on the cone flower.

I am curious though – regular photography seems to be a poor seller on e-bay. (Too much supply, not enough demand I imagine). In your experience do daguerreotypes sell reasonably well on ebay? (Yours or others) I’ve tried to research sales on ebay and the contemporary works are hidden in the flood of antiques.

[Andy Stockton]

I also found Covington Engineering a while back. They carry lapdary supplies including Chome Oxide. I can’t vouch for them yet as I haven’t ordered from them, but they have certainly been in business a while (1848!). Maybe they supplied the original daguerreotypists.

http://www.covington-engineering.com/Lapidary_Polishing_Powders.htm

[Andy Stockton]

Electron Microscopy Sciences has an interesting assortment of quality abrasives in modest quantities at pretty decent prices. This is the abrasives link:

http://www.emsdiasum.com/microscopy/products/materials/polishing_supplies.aspx

The whole conglomerate with all products can be found here:

http://www.emsdiasum.com

I have bought some 3 micron alumina from them.

[Andy Stockton]

Thanks to both of you for the clarifications. I will look forward to your information on copper in a future post.

I did have one question (well, I have hundreds of questions but I will limit myself to one )

If you don’t rinse between the rouge/chrome oxide/lampblack steps, do you use anything (air-dust, disposable wipe, other?) between the steps to keep the prior/coarser polishing agent from contaminating the next buff? Perhaps that is what you were referring to in your clarifying post John? Or is that only needed at the end?

[Andy Stockton]

Irv-

This kind of information is so very helpful to beginners like myself, thank you. I was wondering if you would use the same polishing methods to prepare copper prior to electroplating? Also would you comment on the amount of time you use for the various steps?

Here is my expanded interpretation of the process you have described. Is this anywhere near reality or have I made incorrect assumptions?

Step1

Polish-0.1 Mic Alumina

Applicator-Silk Velvet on foam

Method-2 drops olive oil/ROS “Speed 1″/Rinse with dish soap & water/Rinse with distilled water

Step2

Polish-Chrome oxide aka “Green Rouge”

Applicator-Ultrasuede on foam

Method-Dry “minute dusting”/ROS “Speed 1″/Rinse with distilled water

Step3

Polish-Lampblack

Applicator-Ultrasuede on foam

Method-Dry “minute dusting”/ROS “Speed 1″/Rinse with distilled water/Dry with hot air gun

Thanks again

[Andy Stockton]

I ran across this somewhat sobering video from Bowling Green State University tonight. They have developed a method of visualizing mercury vapors being given off at room temperature. They show various quantities in a number of substrates. Although I do believe that mercury can be handled safely, this film was still quite an eye-opener for me. It made the issue much more real.

http://wbgustream.bgsu.edu/bgsu/epa/index-fl.html

[Andy Stockton]

It has a mysterious quality that I very much like.

[Andy Stockton]

It’s an interesting question. In my reading I have only seen examples of tank plating. Perhaps no one reading here has tried brush plating. A while back I tried to get some answers on the Caswell’s BBS concerning their non-cyanide silver plating process, but no one answered there.

Keep trying, no matter what I have asked in the daguerreian world, someone eventually comes out of the wordwork and explains to me that he had tried that some years ago and etc, and etc. In a field where there are mostly independent workers discovering and rediscovering processes and methods the answer can take a while.

[Andy Stockton]

Thanks to you both for your detailed responses. They will be read by many, now and in the future I think. I have resolved to spend little time reading this weekend and to make more practical steps on the path to that first plate.

[Andy Stockton]

You have answered my question about exposure “tricks” and as usual have given me much to think about. I appreciate your taking the time to share your many years of experience in such depth. You have a very clear way of explaining things.

It makes me want to get busy and make some plates! Several others have already chided me to read less and get my hands dirty more, I will renew my efforts in that direction.

I did have one more question though if you haven’t run out of patience yet. I live in an area of high humidity and have read a number of things that mention both temperature and humidity as critical factors. Is that your experience? If so, how do you compensate?

Thanks.

[Andy Stockton]

Thanks Rob – This is very helpful. I have noticed others comment elsewhere about how much plate preparation can affect sensitivity. Are there tricks to compensating for that as well? Or do you just work to make your plates as consistent as possible?

jdanforth – Have you noticed any patterns in the 2 months you have had your UV meter? (Or has winter kept you indoors?)

[Andy Stockton]

Photolytic – thanks for the extra info. The liner on the poster tape sounds like a definite plus. I will give some a try.

70’s dager – I hadn’t thought of film packs. Thanks. I will keep my eyes open at the next trade show. I am currently coming up with something to fit a B&H Grover 8×10 which is presently my only large format camera. Your description is clear BTW – if I manage to get a smaller format unit it though sounds like it might be the way to go.

[Andy Stockton]

As the very junior member of the team – I will defer all of the compliments to Jon and Alan who have done 99.9% of the work. Your appreciation is kind however and I’m sure will inspire us all to further efforts. I hope I am at the table when we all meet. I look forward to the conversation.

In the meantime I hope that the Daguerreian community will join in to make this their website as well. It is the contributions of the members that will truly bring it to life.

[Andy Stockton]

Thanks. I will get some to try. I wonder if there is any difference between the two products or just two ways of marketing the same thing? I will make a report back when I have them both in hand.

[Andy Stockton]

You will have to ask for a commission, an order is on its’ way.  🙂

 

[Andy Stockton]

Yes, but unless I am mistaken Powrgrip seem to be a wholesaler only. So far in drilling down on their site I have only found other wholesalers or retailers that don’t seem to have that specific product. I’m sure it’s there, I just haven’t looked hard enough. When I find a retailer I will post that for everyone.

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