Which kind of adhesive tape and glass

[newone2010]

Hi all,

I purchase some UV-glass(about 1.7mm,low of Reflectivity,about 95% light transmittance).The seller said it was best for photo framing.Now,I want to buy some slef-adhiesive tape.Which kind do you use?Is there any matters need attention I need to know?Or just normal tape can be used?

looking forward for your reply,

Li

[dagist]

Hi Li,

Most people are still using a paper tape called Filmoplast P90 to seal their daguerreotypes. It is convenient to use and the tape itself is archival. The trouble I see, is that the P90 tape is not vapor proof. Air can travel through it, which will eventually result in the formation of tarnish on your daguerreotype, just like the tarnish seen on daguerreotypes made in the 1800s.

Another choice is a clear polypropylene tape called J-Lar which some daguerreotypists use.

I invented my own sealing tape to prevent my daguerreotypes from tarnishing. My tape is vapor proof and prevents air incursion into the daguerreotype package. It also has an additional protective layer that scavenges-out any harmful atmospheric vapors that may have been trapped inside the enclosure when it was sealed. Unfortunately, my tape is not yet available for sale so you will have to use one of the other choices.

Cheers,

Rob McElroy

Buffalo, NY

[newone2010]

Hi,I can not find any seller who sell J-Lar tape here.I do find just one link from Ebay.Can I use another tape to instead of it?Another kind of tape which is made from polypropylene and clear?Is acidless or PH nature important?I can find 3M tape here and they have many kinds including clear BOPP tapes.

[greg7mdp]

Li, I’m sure you can buy Filmoplast P90 tape from book supply dealers in China, like http://www.alibaba.com/member/hk106614451/contactinfo.html. P90 is the tape that most daguerreotypists and conservators use and is time-proven. The air travel through the tape has to be minuscule, if any, in my opinion, and I don’t worry about it.

[photolytic]

Most of the responses seem to be focusing of the tape issue here so I’ll switch to glass.

The advice you received from the seller of photo framing supplies does not apply to Daguerreotypes.

While colorless museum glass is nice to use, UV protection is not necessary with Dags, because they are not faded by light, and low reflectance glass interferes with the reflection from the surface of the Dag plate, making the image harder to see.

[newone2010]

Thank you ,Greg and John.

I will looking for the tape you mentioned,and John,the attachments show the difference:UV-glass and normal glass.The uv glass has two layers very very thin which can not been seen.These two layers make the glass clear,low in reflectivity,and UV-proof.I think it would be very similar as the museum glass which you use.The seller didn’t know what was museum glass,but he said his glass maybe called “museum-grade UV glass”in English.How much museum glass which you use costs?If we compare the costs,we can know the results.

best,

Li

 

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[newone2010]

Hi Greg,

What’s the difference of this two kinds:FILMOPLAST P90 & P90 PLUS NESCHEN BOOK REPAIR TAPE?Which you use?I think both of them are okay.Just for making sure.

I will order some after I am sure which kind is what I need.

best,

Li

[newone2010]

Hi John,

I think I might made an mistake in glass choice.I searched informations on internet and found a Link:http://www.tru-vue.com/Tru-Vue/Products/33/

I read here and I know some of you use “museum glass”,I was sure that was the thing.

I checked the website of this company ” Tru Vue”,and there was just one kind of glass called”museum glass”,also there were other kinds:Conservation Reflection Control,Conservation Clear,UltraVue,Reflection Control.

I thought you must use the “Museum Glass”.I called the seller,he said the glass which he already cut for me was the production from “Nielsen Bainbrige”:http://www.nielsen-bainbridge.com/ but I did not found any info on their website about glass.The glass I bought is really expensive.When I made an mistake in it,where I could go to find the right thing?In China,looking for good framing materials is so difficult.

best,

Li

[photolytic]

Hi Li,

Conservation clear is probably the same as museum glass, if by clear they mean colorless not transparency. Museum glass is made with low iron sand so it does not have the greenish blue tint of regular glass. The color is in the interior of the glass, not just a layer on the surface. Adding a layer on the glass surface can correct the apparent color but it does so by filtering out the color, so it also reduces the transpareny of the glass. If you look at the edge of a sheet of museum glass it will show no tint on the inside.

In 2008 my glass supplier in Chicago charged $950 for a 100 square foot case of museum glass cut to wholeplate size, but they charged less than $100 for a case of regular glass cut to the same size.

John

[greg7mdp]

Hi Li, the two tapes you mentioned are just about the same (see description in http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/140569921331). I have used both and the difference is difficult to see. Both will work perfectly – my latest package happened to be the blue box.

Also I would suggest that you use the glass you already bought. I agree with John that UV protection is unnecessary, but it should not be a problem either. I have used many different kind of glass and indeed just regular good quality framing glass is fine, as the natural green tint is not apparent on a framed dag (you really notice it on the glass only when you look at the glass from the side). Don’t worry about the framing details too much. Many pristine masterpieces from the past came to us framed under extremely poor quality glass (by today’s standards) and with disintegrating hand-made paper tape.

greg

[newone2010]

Thank you ,John and Greg!

Now,I know what I will do.I will show you all if I make one satisfying dag.I already have some plan and will work on it few weeks later.

best,

Li

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