Any lamp of a neutral color will do. I use the light from a 40w incandescent bulb reflected from a sheet of white foam core from a distance of about 18 inches. Turn off any red safelight lamps in the darkroom as they will make the plate color look warmer than normal. (I.e. yellow appears rose).
If you are following up the iodine fume with bromine you must experiment with different times as the color does not change as much as the fuming time is increased. Keep the “bright” light on as you did with the iodine. The time may vary from as little as 4s up to 20s depending upon the strength of the bromine in the box.
After you reach the color you want, give the plate a 2nd iodine fuming approximately 1/3 as long as the first iodine fuming. Keep the “bright” light on during this fuming. Use longer fuming (i.e. 10, or 20s) if you want lower contrast. You may notice that the color changes more during this 2nd iodine fuming than it did during the previous bromine fuming.
At this time, turn off the “bright” light and use only a darkroom safelight. A 2s to 5s final iodine fuming is enough to get the plate ready for the camera exposure. Longer exposures will produce lower contrast images.
Camera exposure using indoor lights will depend of the color temp of the source but may be twice as long as for our sunlight exposures. See the Irving Pobboravsky exposure guide in the resources section