Cold mercury development problems
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Tagged: Cold mercury development
- This topic has 32 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 10 months ago by Bakody.
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October 16, 2012 at 8:25 pm #10235botticelli1972Participant
I like the tones as well, what were the exposure f stop and time?
October 17, 2012 at 3:49 am #10198BakodyParticipantI think I measured f5.6, time was 1/125. I think it's more important, that I sensitized just with iodine until rose colour and maybe I gilded for too long. I had to change on the exposure time from 6.7min to 13.3min.
This is the latest: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=406839849383272&set=a.371776002889657.82853.371771479556776&type=1&relevant_count=1
Here the exposition time was 27min. I sensitized just with iodine until rose colour and I think the gilding was better this time. Development time was 3 hours at -0.96bar, temperature 14C.
I ordered the bromine. I hope until this weekend it will arrive so I can try it soon. At the first try I want to mix 1-2 drops of bromine with some water and put it in to the fuming box and maybe if result wont be too good or not too even, mix it with silica gel.
http://daginhun.blogspot.com/ http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype
December 24, 2012 at 11:43 am #15186BakodyParticipantI started to use bromine for sensitizing. Today I mad the third plate with it, better and better, but I don’t know now what’s wrong.
I start with iodine, until the plate colour change to yellow (before turn to orange).
Then I use bromine, until the colour change to rose. (on the first plate(IMG_8421aa.jpg) at the corners was purple, in the middle rose, second plate(IMG_8456a.jpg) the colour was rose everywhere, except one small area in the corner)
Then I used iodine again with no light, just to “erase the light” .What do you think, what’s wrong? Is the bromine is still too much? Or I need to live it for longer time in the second round of iodine?
On the first dag(IMG_8421aa.jpg), up and down in a horizontal line, you can see good parts, where is no fog. On the second plate(IMG_8456a.jpg) you can see bigger area on here jacket, where is no fog…. (?)Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.http://daginhun.blogspot.com/ http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype
December 25, 2012 at 7:46 am #15190photolyticParticipantMost of your first plate is very good.
What are the times and temperatures for the fuming?
Bromine may be too long but without times I can not tell.
Divide the fuming time into several 2 second intervals, rotating the plate 180 degrees each time to prevent fuming one side of the plate longer that the other. Because it takes about 1 second to pull out the slide or drawer the first half of the plate to be fumed receives a longer fuming time than the last half of the plate.
Try masking parts of the plate with glass or plastic during bromine fuming and using different bromine times in each masked area.
That way you can tell which bromine fume time is the best.
Keep up the good work.
John
Second iodine should be about half as long as the first iodine.
You should do part of the second iodine (5sec) in white light.
You can better judge whether the bromine has been too long by examining the plate after half of the second iodine funing.
At his stage the color should still be rose or lavender but not blue or green.
Only about 2sec in dark (safelight) is needed to erase the effects of earlier light exposure.
December 25, 2012 at 1:26 pm #15191BakodyParticipantThank you for your help!
The main problem was the second iodine wasn’t enough long. Now it’s good. Thank you for the advice.
This time I still used a little bit more Br, but next time I will know how to do it…
It’s a little bit overexposed on here face and maybe underdeveloped, but I recycled the plate many times, so I think not much silver left on it, I will keep it. I gilded as well.You asked about the time of the iodine and bromine. I always look at the colour changes, so I don’t really know the time. Anyway, now the weather is cold in here, the temperature is about 2-3C, so it’s means, so during fuming the temperature is 2-3C and everything takes longer then usual.
The vacuum was -0,95bar, mercury temperature was about 3C and the development time was 4 hours.
Video about this daguerreotype and see the photo about it below.
(Soon I will finish with a few minutes long video about how to make vacuum developed dags… so how I make it…)
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.http://daginhun.blogspot.com/ http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype
December 26, 2012 at 2:26 pm #15195BakodyParticipantFor me to start to use bromine was an important milestone in how I make daguerreotypes and because of this I made a short video about vacuum mercury development. This video is about how I made the picture what you can see in the previous post.
http://daginhun.blogspot.com/ http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype
January 15, 2013 at 3:27 pm #15326botticelli1972ParticipantI like the video, and what an improvement. Do you have a Puli? We have one. How do you hold your plate to the wooden block during polishing?
January 15, 2013 at 3:53 pm #15327BakodyParticipantThank you! Yes, an old Puli 🙂 I’m using double sided tape to hold the plate. Don’t use too much, because it will be difficult to take it off.
http://daginhun.blogspot.com/ http://www.facebook.com/DagerrotipiaDaguerreotype
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