photolytic wrote:Daguerreotype plates thus polished react more rapidly to iodine fumes producing a thicker coating. It may be necessary to reduce the fuming time in order to bring the contrast back up to the desired level.

This is very true. The sensitivity increases as well but you do lose contrast. Double-edged sword, really. Sometimes I’ll lay down a heavy Iodine layer if I know that I’ll need a (comparatively) fast exposure.

I agree that a haze can be produced when the polisher is run too fast and the plate heats up. You should buy an orbital polisher with variable speed adjustment, such as the Bosch model 3725DEVS. This model is available at toolsforless.com for less than $120. www.toolsforless.com…Polisher. The polisher should be set it at the lowest possible opperating speed.When polishing dry with powdered rouge you may get some haze after prolonged polishing. This haze will be removed when the plate is subsequently polished with lampblack.Daguerreotype plates thus polished react more rapidly to iodine fumes producing a thicker coating. It may be necessary to reduce the fuming time in order to bring the contrast back up to the desired level. You may also find that RO polished plates are up to twice as sensitive to light.Try reducing the exposure time to prevent haze from forming in the shadow areas of the image.

I tried the random orbit polishing thing and found the results to be less than thrilling, little squiggly marks and a hazy appearance overall, I think the machines move too fast to get good results.

Somehow I feel that the contemporary community as a whole seems to feel that perfection is desirable/necessary to produce a good image. I much prefer horizontal lines that disappear when properly illuminated. I have found through looking at many 19th century examples, from some of the best makers, that they ALL have polishing lines, some even in a semi-circular orientation from corner to edge. If you illuminate them properly, from the side as with window light, they vanish. No one complains about Whipple, Root, Southworth & Hawes, or Plumbe having polishing lines, even though they are there. Even the original Rev. Levi L. Hill Hillotypes have visible polishing lines when looked at obliquely.

jdanforth wrote: Doesn’t this screw up your viewing lines using a round polisher?!?

The polisher must have random ordital motion.
A "round" polisher with circular motion won’t do.
If the pads are soft enougn and the polishing agent fine enough there will be no visable lines,
therefore no problems viewing your Dags regardless of the angle.
Some Daguerreotypists use a series of fine submicron sized polishing agents with a liquid carrier such as olive oil or xylene to achieve the best polish.
If you can see lines, then you need to polish more with a finer polishing agent.
If you still see lines, then you may be applying too much pressure on the polisher.

photolytic wrote:Most Daggers use Bosch model R5013 5" sponge applicator pads currently available at toolsforless.com for $11.80/each. They attach to most 5inch Random orbital polishers via a hook and eye (Velcro) pad on the back.

Doesn’t this screw up your viewing lines using a round polisher?!?

RichardCynan wrote:I’m thinking about purchasing a random orbital sander to polish my plates. Anyone know what pads (make, grade, etc) would be best suited for polishing silver? Have just received my plates from London and Brighton Plating Co

http://www.lbplating.com/

Can’t wait to get started. ” title=”Razz” />

Richard

Welcome, Richard! Great to see you here!

Most Daggers use Bosch model R5013 5" sponge applicator pads currently available at toolsforless.com for $11.80/each. They attach to most 5inch Random orbital polishers via a hook and eye (Velcro) pad on the back. The front is a rigid polyfoam pad. For fine polishing, I cover the pad with velvet by sewing it to the pad with heavy thread. Some use this system for preliminary wet polishing of Dag plates with fine alumina powder. I prefer to use a high speed jeweler’s wheel polisher to remove the deeper scratches. I follow this up with a Random Orbital polish with rouge, and then lampblack, and finally a buff with a clean pad to remove all polishing powders.
When the velvet gets too dirty cut it off the pad and throw it out.
Velvet is not water washable and you’ll never the grit out.
A good source of silk velvet is http://www.thaisilks.com. They sell 54 inch wide bolts of natural white, 18% silk/ 82% rayon velvet for $17.90/ yard which works well. Alternately they also have 100% silk velvet, 54 inches wide for $36/yard.

Known to the older generation of contemporary Daguerreotypists as the “Prince of polish” Irving has made an art of the science as well as a science of the art. His recent still-lifes make up our latest artist gallery.

I’m thinking about purchasing a random orbital sander to polish my plates. Anyone know what pads (make, grade, etc) would be best suited for polishing silver? Have just received my plates from London and Brighton Plating Co

http://www.lbplating.com/

Can’t wait to get started. ” title=”Razz” />

Richard